Find the right boat, without the noise.

Before you view, learn what the model typically sells for, its common faults, and what it costs to run. Our price guide shows you where an asking price sits against similar boats. Read owner forums and class-association notes, every popular model has known weak spots.

Why are they selling? How long have they owned her? What work has been done, and is there a service history? Any known issues, past damage, groundings or repairs? When was the last antifoul, engine service and rig check? A straight-talking seller is a good sign.

Ask for proof of ownership and the chain of previous bills of sale. For registered vessels, ask to see the registration (in the UK, the SSR or Part 1 Registry document). Confirm the HIN (hull identification number) matches both the papers and the hull itself.

A boat can carry a marine mortgage or outstanding finance, and that debt can follow the boat, not the seller. Get written confirmation any finance is settled before you pay, and for a high-value boat, consider a solicitor.

Photos hide a lot. See the boat in person, and out of the water for anything significant. Look for signs of damp, soft decks, crazing, corrosion, and repairs that do not match the original finish.

For anything but the smallest craft, pay for an independent marine surveyor of your own choosing, never the seller’s. They check hull, structure, rigging, engine and systems, and routinely find things worth far more than their fee. A survey is also your basis for renegotiating.

See the boat under way before you commit: engine under load, steering, gears, electronics, and how she handles. A seller confident in their boat will not object. Reluctance is a flag.

Ask for engine hours and service records. Cold-start it yourself, a warmed-up engine can hide starting problems. Watch for oil leaks, corrosion, excessive smoke and overheating. On outboards, sense-check the hours against the year.

Standing and running rigging, sails, through-hulls and seacocks, electrics, gas, bilge pumps, safety gear, and the trailer if there is one. Ask the age of anything safety-critical, rigging and gas in particular have service lives.

Beyond the price: mooring or berthing, insurance, licensing, antifoul, servicing, winter storage and transport. The running costs over a year can rival a big chunk of the purchase price, so budget for them.

Be wary of a price that is too good, a seller who will not do a live video call or sea trial, pressure to pay a deposit fast, or requests for wire transfer or crypto to “hold” the boat. Never pay in full before seeing the boat and its papers. If anything feels off, walk away, and report the listing to us.

Agree the sale terms in writing: the price, what is included (tenders, outboards, electronics, sails), and any conditions. A written bill of sale protects both sides and is often needed to register the boat in your name.

A marine surveyor, a solicitor for a high-value purchase, and an experienced boater or broker you trust are all worth their fee. The cost is small against the price of the boat, and against the cost of getting it wrong.

If the seller dodges questions, the paperwork does not add up, or the boat does not match the advert, do not let sunk time push you into a bad buy. There is always another boat.

No. Searching, viewing and saving boats are all free, and you can browse without an account.

Use the enquiry option on the listing. Your enquiry reaches the seller, who replies straight to your inbox, so you deal with each other directly from there.

No. Wave and Wake charges sellers to advertise and takes no commission on the sale. You deal directly with the seller, and the deal is between the two of you.

No. Sellers list their own boats, and it is up to the seller to confirm identity, ownership and finance status. We are an advertising platform, not a party to the sale, so always do your own checks: see the advice section above, and get a survey.

Most listings show how the price compares to similar boats. It is a guide to what others are asking, not a formal valuation, but it is a handy sense-check.

For almost any boat, yes. An independent marine surveyor of your own choosing is the best money you can spend before buying. See the advice section above for how to go about a purchase.